Until last summer when I discovered how easy it is to make jam in my own kitchen, I coveted the jars of homemade apricot jam that my mother-in-law provided us with. I worried about the gap between when our jar ran out and when we’d get a new one. Then I watched how she made her jam, and decided that there was no reason I couldn’t make my own. One big batch of jam can last the whole year (depending on how much you eat, of course, or how generous you are with it) and it’s rewarding to see all of your jars lined up, just waiting to be used. Lekvár is made from all types of fruits when they are in season, but apricot and plum are the most commonly made in Hungary. And now — since plums are cheap and plentiful at the markets — is the perfect time for making it.
The Hungarian method of making jam is simple, and Hungarian cooks generally forego the complicated sterilization process and boiling the jars. They have no complicated canning contraptions and special canning jars. Rather, they save their ordinary jars throughout the year (ignoring the commonly held canning mantras that say to never re-use the lids and to use canning rings). Here’s how the canning process generally goes in Hungarian home kitchens: Slowly pour the hot jam mixture into clean jars, cover with saran wrap, tightly secure the lids, cover bottles with thick blankets for about two days until they are completely cool. the purpose of the blankets is to ensure that the jam cools very slowly, which they say, will sterilize it well enough to last unopened for years.
I prefer the extra security that boiling the jars brings. I don’t use any fancy canning equipment, just a stock pot big enough to hold lots of boiling water and all of my jars. A pair of tongs is also good to have on hand, for removing the jars from the water. Place an inverted cake pan on the bottom of the pot (so the jars won’t directly touch the hot pot), place jars on the pan, fill with water, and bring to a boil. Boil for about ten minutes and keep the jars in the warm water until you’re ready to fill them (keep the water boiling after you remove the jars). Fill the jars with the hot jam, leaving about a quarter inch space. Run a wooden chopstick or skewer around the edge of the jar to get rid of any air bubbles, and then tightly seal. Put the sealed jars back in the hot water and boil for about ten more minutes. Remove the jars and let them cool completely. If you’d like, you can also use the Hungarian method of covering the jars with heavy blankets until they are completely cooled.
Hungarian homemade jam is generally not as sweet or thick as the commercial varieties of jam. The lack of commercial pectin, I think, gives the jam a fresher flavor. I add lemon juice, which helps the jelling process by bringing out the natural pectin in the fruit. Most important, use good fruit that’s sweet and perfectly ripe.
Plum Jam
Szilva lekvár
1 kg plums, pitted and quartered
200 grams sugar
juice of 1 lemon
Prepare your jars (see above). Put the plums in a pot and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently (you can also use a potato masher to mash the fruit up a bit). When the mixture begins to liquefy add the sugar and continue to cook and stir until it thickens. Total cooking time is about 40 minutes, and for the last five minutes it should cook at a fast boil. Pour into the sterilized jars.
* This recipe makes a chunky jam, but if you prefer a smoother jam you can take this extra step before cooking the fruit: Slit the skin on the bottom of the plums, blanch them in boiling water, and then run them under cool water. Remove the skins and purée the plums in a blender or food processor for about a minute, or until pureed.
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